Oh good, welcome to hell. š
The thing is, if you do a good job it can be outstandingly beautiful motor. May I suggest you get the cases clocked to check for bearing housing squareness and parallel. They can need help. I have many other things that spring to mind, if your interest Iāll let rip. Like bevel gears donāt have ātight spotsā strangely enough, itās always something not running true.
Iām currently using Ignitech TCIP4ās as the ignition of choice. I have them in a 250 narrowcase 1962, a MHR 1980, soon a Darmah, and quite successfully today in the Endurance racer. Points are very limited and the maps on most of the other available types are close, but you can do better by pushing little dots on a graph to just the right place. Then press program. Curves needed to be made at both ends, rather than the jumps initially supplied.
Attached is my front plug, rear is the same. The burn and timing is after 60km max 5000 rpm ( running in) load and unload hills and flat. Note on the strap the timing line. Also the insulator, just below the visible white is a grey brown band. About 1-2mm off bottom. This is what you strive for when tuning. Correct air fuel going bang at the right time to give maximum power. I ended up from a supplied bevel twin kokusan map at 10Ā° start and 35Ā° max at 5000 rpm, to 5Ā° start and 30 max at 5000rpm and it made a difference to cylinder head and barrel temp. (I have a barrel hot LED on the dash (110Ā°C on fridge temp sensor wedged in between rear cooling fine with cork.) 31.7 today, I got the cylinder head and upper barrel down from 125Ā° to 112Ā°C. Lower barrel 109 down to 103Ā°. Measure immediately after shut down with a laser temp gauge. On 22-25Ā°C days, on a single, lower barrel should be about 90-93Ā°C after a good flogging
