Toni851
the engine run/off switch on my 851 biposto '90 seems to not make proper contact anymore in the "on" position and the bike/fuelpump sometimes wont start or even worse, the motor cuts out while driving.
so before i try to repair the switch or go and buy a new one...
i noticed that my switch looks quite different then the oem 851 ones (65040031A) i found in the internet and im wondering if ducati used different switches on the 851 models or if mine is just a common switch anyway and this is my chance to replace it with an oem 851 part again.
here some pics, my switch looks like the one on the motopro pic...
https://x.cloudsdata.net/dl/images/products/large/561fc86e465a7_Immagine-030.jpg
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/372644764687
stiglarsenDK
On/off
The one from ebay is the correct one, for the later bikes , belive 92-94.
Earlier models had same swich but different connctor.
Toni851
thanks stig, would the correct connector for the earlier models look like this?
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/GGgAAOSwhwdVUonm/s-l1600.jpg
Tric
Check the connection under the tank, when it stops lift the tank, disconnect the plug and reconnect and see if it runs.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Toni851
ok, will try that first. just had a new fuelpump installed this spring, maybe something got twisted by mistake, will also check the relay
thanks alot for the advices
stiglarsenDK
Toni851 wrotethanks stig, would the correct connector for the earlier models look like this?
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/GGgAA...nm/s-l1600.jpg
I belive it's the right connector, but check what it's connected to ,, the other end ;-)
Toni851
sounds logic đ
Toni851
glad the forum is back...
i replaced the old switch, with an oem ducati one (looks great) and the bike started right away. so i got brave and took it down to the gasstation to add some fuel an inflate the tires. at the gastation, switch off, ignition off, gasoline in, ignition on, switch to run, no fuelpump buzz, repeat, negativ. just the relay clicks and the starter turns when i press start-button. so i had to push the bike back home, 1 mile slightly uphill just like i love it, felt a bit like conan the barbarian in the mill.
next i will try check the connection under the fuelktank, like tric told me last octobre. just i never ever lifted the tank before, i hope nothing goes wrong since its completely full now.
are there any fuses or relays i can check or change too and where are they placed (any other places then in the trunk/ tail)? unfortunaly i dont know nothing about electrics, i dont even have a voltmeter to follow the power. killswitch is new and fuelpump and -filter are only 10 months old so it must be a wire, connection, fuse or relay...
trogg888
Relay under the seat tail unit ?
Toni851 wroteglad the forum is back...
i replaced the old switch, with an oem ducati one (looks great) and the bike started right away. so i got brave and took it down to the gasstation to add some fuel an inflate the tires. at the gastation, switch off, ignition off, gasoline in, ignition on, switch to run, no fuelpump buzz, repeat, negativ. just the relay clicks and the starter turns when i press start-button. so i had to push the bike back home, 1 mile slightly uphill just like i love it, felt a bit like conan the barbarian in the mill.
next i will try check the connection under the fuelktank, like tric told me last octobre. just i never ever lifted the tank before, i hope nothing goes wrong since its completely full now.
are there any fuses or relays i can check or change too and where are they placed (any other places then in the trunk/ tail)? unfortunaly i dont know nothing about electrics, i dont even have a voltmeter to follow the power. killswitch is new and fuelpump and -filter are only 10 months old so it must be a wire, connection, fuse or relay...
The following may be a red herring, as I'm not familiar with difference between 851 and the 93 on stars and SP5. On the later 888s, there are 2 relays under the seat - one fused, and is for the fuel pump. If 851s are similar, this could be the source of your problem. Mine was working loose when ridden, leading to intermittent connection (similar symptom as a misfire), then (as it transpired) as the connection worked loose, arcing caused the fuse to blow= no more fuel pump, and one dead bike.
It turned out the relay feed connector had a wired lock-clip that was missing on mine, which stops the connection working loose and disconnecting whilst the bike moves. Does this help your fault finding ?
Toni851
yes, this helps definitely, i will check on this clip, and now i understand that the fused relay is the fuelpump one. i guess both relays have this clip? like this i can check if both look simliar
thanks m8
Peter888
I don't want to state the obvious but... If you had a new fuel pump fitted, and now the fuel pump sometimes doesn't work, I'd assume that the problem lies right there. I'd check the installation and connectors to your fuel pump.
Toni851
yes you right and i should bring it back to the ducati shop who installed the fuelpump, put unfortunaly the shop is 50 km away from my home and i would have to transport the bike on a hanger. so before i do that i try check everything i can to make sure i dont transport it just to replace a relay. also the motor cutted out while riding before i replaced the fuelpump, this was the reason i replaced it in first place. now i have new fuel-filter/ pump, new battery, and new killswitch and have to check wiring, connections, relay and fuse and cross fingers its not the ecu
Steben
When I recently bought mine , I changed the relays as I'd read about the issues on the technical thread on this site. The fuel relay was showing signs it had been getting warm . If its a 4 pin relay they are cheap and readily available, if its a 5 pin they are difficult to find but wiring can be altered to suit the 4 pin. There is a how to I read somewhere! Good luck.
Toni851
i found this post from a member called "got2dv8"
http://www.ducati851and888.com/showt...hp?4521-relays
so i will try to get me one of these italmec 609 relays, i think they are used in some cars too (maserati and land rover). the "how to" i saw too but i would pobably destroy more then fix something when i try that...
Toni851
i removed the fused relay and reinserted it and there it was, this lovely buzz of the fuelpump priming but...it lastet only for 1 second. so chances are high theres actually something wrong with this relay or its connections because also only the unfused relay is clicking when i turn the switch to run.
the guzzi shop around the corner gave me an unfused relay for testing, saying "this should work" but before i insert it and close the power circuit i want to be sure its safe. last thing i need is a "shorty" and a smoked down ecu.
left is the fused relay i removed from the bike and right is the unfused one from the guzzi shop. can i insert it and testrun the bike with 2 unfused relays for 1 minute or thats a bad idea?
Peter888
The relay (12v-2335) looks like a standard Italian relay from the 1980s and 1990s. It costs about 6Euros online (e.g. here:
https://shop.euroimpex.lt/en/dalis/249777/relay-module). For instance, it seems to be a common fit on Alfa 164s, so I suspect if you go into an Alfa Romeo delearship they will have them on the shelf.
(I suppose you have checked the fuse on the relay? If it has blown then you definitely shouldn't fit a non-fused relay)
Toni851
you right, alfa spider use them too but they have a 30 fuse inside, my relay has a 15 fuse, not sure what that means. also when i removed the fuse i noticed that the fuse "intake" is very greasy like someone put grease inside, thats normal or this could be the cause of the missfunktion? like i said, i dont know nothing about electrics, i dont even know how to check if the fuse is blown or not...
Toni851
ok theres something like contact grease, might be whats inside the fuse "intake"..
Toni851
so fare i figured out 4 options relay wise
. oem ducati relay nr. 28740231A
- oem ducati relay nr. 000067464
- italmec 609 or 218 (old)
- mp italy 2335
im probably gonna order the 28740231A , not the cheapest one of the 4 so i hope the diva will honor it and run again
griff851
Ok, wow are you going down a rabbit hole blind. First off the 2 relays in the picture are different. See the little diagram on the relay. The on on the left is normally open (no ignition power) and when closed makes contact with both 87âs. the one on the right is normally (no ignition power) power to 87a and when powered switches to pin 87. They are not interchangeable as they do 2 different jobs.
Relays get warm, they have current flowing through them. When they get too much current they get hot and burn out. You will see heat damage around the pins.
Letâs look at the issue.
Runs for a bit, then doesnât. 2 things can usually (stress usually) cause this. Loose connection or corrosion.
Corrosion in a wire. As currently flows it creates heat from the resistance of the wire itself. Corrosion increases resistance. So corrosion will cause a hot spot. The kicker is as heat increases so does resistance. So corrosion can allow the current to flow, but then it heats up and then current drops off to a point where no current can flow.
This leads to a normal start, run for a bit then stop. Let cool down then it will run again for. But then stop.
Loose or bad connection. The bike will run, but then bumps or knocks cause the stop. The bike may or may not start again. Wiggling wires may get the bike to start. Or putting in a transport, which bumps around may have the same effect.
So, letâs look at some checks you can do.
Turning on the ignition, kill switch in run, both relays will click, you can hear them, you can also feel them with your finger. If one is not clicking, itâs not getting power. Push the loom up at the bottom of the relay and see if it clicks. If you wiggle the loom and the relay is clicking on an off, connection is the problem. The spade connector is probably not locked into the block properly. Remove the block and relay together and look to see if the all look the same distance. If one is sitting high, stick in a small screw driver and push the female until itâs the same as the others. Also look for white or white bluish powder around where the wire joints the spade coonector. Google 6.3mm non insulated female spade connectors. Look for one with a tang sticking up on its back ( the tang holds the connector in the plastic block). This is what you are dealing with here. Look for stands of wire, there should be none.they should all be in the spade connector.
The 89/90 has to identical 5 pin fused relays. If not, someone has been playing. This is handy as you can swap them to help with fault finding.
If you do not have 2 identical relays the fun begins. First look at the diagram on the relay, to see that both have the same diagram. If they do, then nobody has been playing musical chairs with the spade connectors. I will more than likely be the unfused one. To check, pull the relays and compare where the numbers are. There is a common standard 5pin relay available everywhere. Itâs just that the pins are in different location, hence the spade connector will have been moved around appropriately. You can also buy them fused, they are not stupidly expensive like the Ducati ones which are no longer available, or werenât last time I checked. Hella are probably the best relays.
Hope this helps.
Check all your plugs in the loom for corrosion. It sounds to me that might be issue.
Before going out and just changing components which can get rather expensive, take the bike to an auto electrician with the wiring diagram and tell him/her whatâs happening and what you have done. He can resistance check the loom to tell you if a wire has corroded somewhere in the loom. Or buy a multimeter, do as the poster says.
âDucati, making mechanics out of riders for sixty yearsâ đ
