Rear ride height "Front Fork" yoke, for corsa rocker arm.

scottieducati

Looking for a yoke like the one in white in the attached picture, whereas the rocker arm "ears" go around the top mounting point instead of the rocker arm forming the pivot and attaching to "ears" on the yoke as with a Strada.

Any leads, greatly appreciated as I have a corsa rocker I'd like to use.

Rudy

I have one on stock

I have one on stock in red.
Please send repley to info@duc-only.nl and not to the forum.

scottieducati

Will shoot you a blast but for now I decided to return the link.... Probably for the best $$ wise...

marvin

I'm not sure of the real value of those "corse" style rockers. I have never seen a billet one (out of the 6 or 7 that I have seen). They all have started out as a casting with 2nd op. machining. Everyone that I have seen has been adjusted in the same exact position as the fixed rocker. So what do you have other than bragging rights and perhaps a weight savings of a few grams!

stiglarsenDK

marvin wroteI'm not sure of the real value of those "corse" style rockers. I have never seen a billet one (out of the 6 or 7 that I have seen). They all have started out as a casting with 2nd op. machining. Everyone that I have seen has been adjusted in the same exact position as the fixed rocker. So what do you have other than bragging rights and perhaps a weight savings of a few grams!

One should not ignore the value (and cost) of bragging rights and loosing a few grams... :-)

Story goes that the first ones where billet (at least thats true for racers) see foto
I found a reproduction unit in the US not to long ago... very well made... and i would think free of cracking issues due to poor ALU casting quality, voids, inclusions etc..

marvin

That's the first "billet" rocker I have seen! I have never heard of "cracking issues"

stafford

Having adjusted one in anger as it were at the Isle of Man it's quite surprising how much rotating the eccentric pivot makes. A small change in ride height but spring compression was vastly different.

stiglarsenDK

marvin wroteThat's the first "billet" rocker I have seen! I have never heard of "cracking issues"

I have seen cracked (around the excentric area) ... may be due to over tightening the clamps.

marvin

I ride primarily on the street where the road conditions are everchanging. I put a lighter spring on the shock as per the Ohlins spring chart. With that spring the sag is within spec., with the shock adjusted it doesn't squat under accell., but still compliant. That's probably about as close as I will ever get.

MarkT

All--

Here is how I explained the benefits of the adjustable rocker to Bill on this forum many years ago

"Bill--

short answer- it depends upon how flat a progressive rate you like (I prefer the term leverage rate because you are really looking at a changing leverage ratio through the arc of the swing arm and rocker), where the rear axle is located (which is a big consideration with the leverage), the stiffness of the spring you chose, the type of trackbumpy or smooth, and the rear ride height you want and more I am sure.

But if you are going to put the bike on the track my recommendation is- when looking at the rocker from the right side of the bike- place the shock bolt at any position between 6 to 9 o'clock. This side of the adjustment gives you the flatter rising rate curves because the spring/shock is closer to 90º (perpendicular) to the swing arm. These flatter curves are what most modern track bikes use because they resist squat and works better mid corner. These positions will also raise your ride height so pick a hole accordingly.

Looking at the pictures you can see that most race bikes I have bought have the shock bolt around the 6:00 positionthis puts your ride height at maximum and the rising rate at the middle adjustment.

If you want to start with a position John Hackett suggests--- then when put the bolt hole at the 8 o'clock position. I have used this position on one of my track bike -- using the mono ball bolts to make any changes in ride height. I have also used the bottom adjustable Mono ball bolt on my shock but that is a real pain to do. I only change my sprocket by 1 tooth at most on this bike so the axle does move much so the leverage stays about the same and I can keep that position from track to track.

If you are going on the street you may want a bigger curve-- so pick a hole on the right side of the clock which tilts the shock/spring more forward. Pick a hole that gives you the ride height you like as a baseline and then adjust at the hoop. Mike C reminded me that the street bike came with the bolt hole at the 3 o'clock position-- good for bumpy street roads- but I think it was even too progressive for a street bike."

nine16

Does anyone make the fine thread rose joint adjusters for the corse hoops? Got that and the rocker, but don't even know what position I've set the rocker to, so this is good info.

Mr.R

Due to finding Stainless Steel rod end bearings with a fine thread damn near impossible...
IIRC? I drilled out the fine thread on my Corse hoop and Heli Coiled the threads to M10x1.50
There's lots of good quality 1.50 threaded ones out there at reasonable prices.

Steve R

stiglarsenDK

Mr.R wroteDue to finding Stainless Steel rod end bearings with a fine thread damn near impossible... IIRC? I drilled out the fine thread on my Corse hoop and Heli Coiled the threads to M10x1.50 There's lots of good quality 1.50 threaded ones out there at reasonable prices. Steve R

Alternative would be to convert the STRADA ones on the top side...i'm preparing that just now... (has been picture here some where all ready)