wgsvintage wroteSnazzy! Any chance of seeing photos of the rest of the plumbing? Is a cooler downstream?
Bill
Not photos yet, still have to buy some fittings and as usual I've run out of cash again.
Basically you block of the bottom of the filter post. Then pull out the aluminium restrictor bung. ( it appears the factory has the standard engine ready for conversion), use AN4 hose up to the oil cooler which has to top feed to store oil to reduce time it takes for oil to get to the heads. AN4 out and into a trick fitting with a 3/8 NPT female to run the oil pressure gauge line, the AN4 T piece for cylinder head lines. Then use a banjo bolt into the cam caps with holes that equal AN3 flow, thus providing the restriction to give the oil pressure you need of about 12-20 psi which gives the crank a tad more oil. Cases have holes in the de-airation plate as in Kevin Brackens (ducatimeccanica) engine. Not quite as radical but. All return from heads cleaned and reshaped using teapot spout theory. I'm using a standard pump, because all that stuff about high volume pumps is bunkem.
Heads are over oiled by heaps and big ends fail due to frequency issues on crap cages.
Nigel Lacey has it sussed with his arrow rod cages. Machines from one piece of ubeaut steel, as opposed to silver coated aluminium to deal with a heat issue that doesnt exist, or the standard pressed cages. Both of which still fall apart at 10k on singles. I'm getting 13k and not a hint of an issue. On ya Nigel. Something like 10 years without a failure.
Interesting doing the research but. All about the sprint car boys searching for solutions as they were blowing up aircraft engines. Pity they got preoccupied with heat, not reciprocating mass and frequency harmonics. Probably also didn't have some of the whippet steels we have today.
