rgpjs11 hi, I am stripping my 888 engine down primarily to work on the valve gear and clutch. The finish on the heads and casings is in poor condition and in need of attention. The heads seem to have some clear lacquer (peeling and flaking). Clean up all and re-lacquer or leave bare? The Black casings I want to keep black. What sort of paint is recommended here? Does it need priming, undercoat? Is there anything I should look out for when lapping in the valves. I don't intend to split the casings unless I find something to warrant it.
stafford Not sure which bits you want to paint but the stuff this place does is really good. http://www.hi-speccoatings.co.uk/
Mr.R Hi ?, Lapping the valves is easy, just make sure that you don't lap them too far and pocket them. While you're in there change the valve guide oil seals. Make sure all the rockers are in tip top condition. Newman cams do a good/bullet proof job at refurbing worn ones for less than buying new ones. What year 851 have you got? Up to '91 they've got 32/28mm valves with thin keepers/wire collets, but the '92 models have 33/29's with thicker wire collets. The '92 set up is far superior and needs less adjustment/last longer between needing more attention. It's worth updating them if the bikes a keeper. MBP collets are a lot better than either of the OEM types and again well worth fitting if keeping the bike. Steve R
rgpjs11 Hi Spec coating are just down the road from me, so ill go and visit. What sort of work has anyone had using them? Overlooked the valve seals on my list! Def add those in. BTW its a 92/93 888 so hopefully has the latter keepers, but ill check. I found a small amount of what looks like chrome flakes in the gauze filter. Might need the rocker refurb if they are the source. Will find out soon when the heads come off.
Mr.R If it's a 888 it will have the later keepers, it was the early 851's up to '91 that had the stainless steel wire 1.5mm wire keepers, after that they went up to 1.75mm wire and magnetic ones. MBP's are really the way to go if the bikes a keeper, they're bullet proof and extend the intervals between needing to adjust the valve shims by a looooong way. They're worth every penny IMHO, I have them in all of my Ducati's now having 1st heard about them at the WDW2000. Steve R
rgpjs11 Got the horizontal head off and the combustion chamber and inlet tract is polished. Is this standard?
rgpjs11 Finally received my gaskets, seals etc. Delayed my rebuild by at least a month. Missing the Donnington meet. Anyhow first problem: Valve guide seals. I cant get them off. Is there a technique or special tool required? So overcame with brute force! what a pig of a job. I have had to remove all the closing rockers to install the new seals. Couldn't see a reasonable way without doing that. Even with the rockers out its not exactly easy to get a straight drive onto the seals. Clearly something you need to do with the heads off. Got a good technique for installing the closing rocker springs now as a by product 😄
Mr.R There's a special tool for installing the valve guide seals, you can see it in the genuine workshop manual. I bought one many years ago and it's been worth it's weight in gold to me. Steve R
rgpjs11 Molla bypass plate I have received my molla bypass plate needed as part of fitting an oil cooler. Can anyone describe how it is fitted and which way up. It looks like it is dropped centrally onto the oil filter, with its bent tab following the curve of the filter casing, and kept in place when the filter is screwed up into the crankcase.With nothing apparently controlling its rotational position. This would suggest that it finds its own position once screwed home and does not have a specific orientation to block or cover any specific oilway or drilling. Some idea of how it does what it does would be useful too.
rgpjs11 Thanks Stafford. Hopefully you can confirm the picture shows it fitted correctly (if the upload works). A key bit of info is that the threaded adapter in the housing needs to be removed and the spring fitted underneath.
