wp906xm
I discovered that the clutchpack in my '93 SPO lacked the last (outside) steel plate. So I got the whole pack out and set it up like the book tells you: first 2 steel plates (2mm), then a driving plate (3mm), a convex plate (1.5mm) and the the series of 6 driving plates (3mm) alternating with 6 steel plates (2mm). In all 38mm, just like the book tells me. Put together though the outer steel plates flips outside the basket as soon as you start the engine and pull the clutch!. My dealer tells me it's the typical Ducati way: with bikes from those years you don't really know what they put in. He advised me to leave out one of the two (first) steel plates. I meassured the drum (brand: LEM): over 40 mm high: no problem. It seems like the drum is not sitting deep enough inside the basket??
One of the reasons to check the clutch was a problem getting the gear in neutral . The clutch, with the smaller pack, is disengaging as it should, no problem. But getting the bike (with running engine) in neutral still is. Any helpfull thoughts will be very appreciated.
grts,
Wilbert
griff851
The clutch pack is dragging some way if its difficult to select neutral. It could be an issue of not being pushed out far enough.Have you bleed the the slave cylinder and checked for leaks? Is the bearing in the pressure plate free spinning with no rough spots? Is the little top hat bit that sits in the bearing worn. (I had one that the push rod machined it way almost through, difficult to select neutral, I now regularly grease it with high pressure lithium grease). Also is the post on the drum with the slot in it lined up with the hole in the pressure plate with the Arrow marked on it? If all Ok, then it gets interesting.
Griff
marvin
FWIW,
The basket on my 92 is not as deep as all other baskets that I have. ??
loony888
so you've added an _extra_ 2mm steel plate then? if so i'd remove a 3mm friction plate and add another steel at 1mm to get the original pack height ensuring you have a steel behind the pressure plate. the friction plate on the pressure plate may be the cause of a hard to find neutral before the shuffle. now if the pack is too tall that will drag as griff has said. also, as griff has mentioned, bleed the system and check the bearing and hat in the pressure plate.
paul.
wp906xm
I checked various points:
- total thickness of the clutchpack: 36mm
- bearing in pressure plate OK
- hat OK
- pressure plate lined up OK
- no leaks
- when pulling the clutch, the pressure plate lifts about 1mm. OK??
- bled the system several times (no bubbles anymore as far as I can see)(system contains Evolutione slave cylinder and steel braided line)
- with the engine not running and a pulled clutch there as some drag.
Other things to check? Any thoughts?
Mr.R
wp906xm wroteI checked various points:
- total thickness of the clutchpack: 36mm
- bearing in pressure plate OK
- hat OK
- pressure plate lined up OK
- no leaks
- when pulling the clutch, the pressure plate lifts about 1mm. OK??
- bled the system several times (no bubbles anymore as far as I can see)(system contains Evolutione slave cylinder and steel braided line)
- with the engine not running and a pulled clutch there as some drag.
Other things to check? Any thoughts?
1mm doesn't sound enough to me, sounds like the Evo' slaves got to big a bore/piston, or you've still got air in the system.
Steve R
wp906xm
Steve,
Will change the Evo back to original (will need a new harmonica rubber) and see what will happen. To be continued.
grts,
Wilbert
griff851
The Evo, is it new? Did it come with a little piece for the old style cases? MPL's comes with a bit you stick inside the slave cylinder to make up for short push rod of 851/888. If your Evo was for a newer model then the slave cylinder is bottoming out and your clutch is dragging. Its just a 5mm slug easy to make.
Griff
wp906xm
Griff,
Evo wasn't new when I bought it. It contains of a cylinder body, piston, bearing and a cover. So not the extra part you're mentioning. What do you mean by a "slug" (sorry, English is not my "moedertaal")
Thanks,
Wilbert
stafford
I'm guessing here but can you just use a ball bearing dropped in the housing for the end end of the shaft to make up the required length?
Remquo
A slug is "een verlengstukje" Wilbert. Placed behind the rod in the cilinder. This way you add length to the pushrod. 1 mm isn't far enough for the clutch to disengage. You can also use a "kogeltje" from a bearing, is wat Stafford says.
brad black
if you have the cover off with the clutch assembled, pull the lever in and see how far the spring caps move. they shouldn't move very much if at all. if they move a couple of mm it probably has a very worn drum where the star washer sits.
greenmonster
+1 on that.
Had to shim my very worn hub, where that washer is, like 2mm.
wp906xm
Dropped in a ball bearing. Result: a little more lift. Will try as soon as I have fixed some other misery that I struck on (electrical: see pics. Does anyone know where that piece of wire(red and white leads that end into a black connector) maybe going to (see pic "foute verbinding 2").
Take a look at the attached pic of the clutchdrum: shouldn't there be a (somewhat starlike) shim under the center bold. Maybe the drum wasn't put in the right way, causing not enough room for a 38mm clutch pack??
Wilbert
griff851
I have seen the the clutch drum start to separate from its cush drive, the cause was the little locating pin was not engaged. Only one way to find out and thats pull it out and look. Use some old steel plates to make a tool to hold the drum. The pic is from a 748 but shows the cush drive (rubber bits).
Griff
greenmonster
shouldn't there be a (somewhat starlike) shim under the center bold.
Yes it should.
griff851
Item 9 is the shim thing. Item 33 is the bit with the little hole in it, which item 38 (Small role pin) goes into as well as the drum itself to locate the item 33.
hope this helps.
PS I wouldn't use a ball bearing in the slave cylinder as the end of the push rod is round. See if you can get a roller bearing roller.
Griff
PS those plugs look pretty badly burned, you should really chase the wires back and replace them or bits of them, because they have be burnt they will still offer high resistance and will burn your plug again It looks like the spade connecters were dirty or corroded. hence the burnt plastic on the plug.
loony888
that burnt plug with the yellow wiring is the connection from the alternator to the reg/rec unit. the main reason it is in that state will be low voltage in the battery, followed by huge amps drawn from the starting process, this leaves the battery very low and being a single phase charging system it only starts charging above about 2500rpm give or take. the charging system then tries to pump huge voltage through a connection that is probably loose, corroded and dirty and the end result is inevitable.
replace the plug and a substantial length of wire either side as the heat will surely have anealed the copper resulting in high resistance as griff pointed out earlier. to ensure you don't have this problem in future plumb in a plug point direct to the battery and use a tender to maintain full charge.
paul.
brad black
pic 1 - no star washer, so the drum will move quite a lot when you pull the clutch in before the pressure plate starts to lift.
pic 2 - all the 2 phase systems that i've ever seen with the spade connectors do that - every 748/916 "upgrade kit" we fitted we had to cut them out of. replace the spades with bullet style connectors and heat shrink them individually. they never give a problem when done properly.
pic 3 - thats the plug that came in the "upgrade kit". the two wires no longer used are the battery voltage reference the old style regs used to work out how much charge needed to be put out and the dash light wire. if the battery reference voltage wire had a voltage drop due to old crappy loom, etc, they would charge excessively. a 906 paso specialty.
wp906xm
Gents,
Thanks very much for your very hulpfull comments😄
Probally not my last question: to check the wiring I removed the airbox. Found out that only one air-intake (the one from the vertical cilinder) has a rubber seal between intake and airbox. On the front the airbox is bolted straight on the intake (throthlebody) See attach. Is this correct?
