main bearing number

spike

aye up chaps has anyone got the main bearing numbers ? RHP branded ,

spike

spike

they are : 7307x2 and 7207x2 .. iknow cos i,ve just taken em out and boy are they errrrr not good !!!! new ones ordered .

spike

spike

so whats the x2 stand for ? bearing bloke said that it ment none standard , is it revolution rating , load rating or what !!

thick spike ( with the overweight pankl rods )

Mr.R

spike wroteso whats the x2 stand for ? bearing bloke said that it ment none standard , is it revolution rating , load rating or what !! thick spike ( with the overweight pankl rods )

Don't forget the drag anchor pistons Spike! 😉
I'll give you Teee Heee Fcuking Heee mate. 😁

I can't help you on the bearing numbers, but as long as you change like for like or uprated items you'll be OK.
I think the later mains from the 999's etc are the same sizes, but have an extra ball in them if this's the case then I'd think that's the way to go.
Any good bearing suppliers should be able to decypher the codes for you.
I usually use BSL but I think they've changed their name now.
Same shop, same staff and same national coverage just different owners.

Steve R

griff851

The 2 is for bearing contact angle. It's either 18 or 25. Or 15 but not more than 18. Something like that. SKF do not do the same angle anyway. How do I know. I just spent an hour yesterday trying to find out. Bob put me on to the fact it was angle contact. They are same since Pantah. Do you want all the bearing numbers. It cost me AU$180 for the lot.
You want plastic cages and C3's for all if you can. C3 is the gap, so when it heats up it has near perfect contact. Plastic cages as for high speed. Funny I was going to post this last night, but Pirates of the Caribbean was on.

Griff

griff851

As if often the case(ha! another pun), I just got the hot poop, as I'm looking into this particular job at the moment. Main bearing crush. It was discussed last Thursday. Ideally it should be 0.05-0.1mm. The book says 0.15mm, but over the years Blob has found that to be a bit tight. It is meant for settling in the bearings. With the smaller figures, after the settling the bearings, endfloat is very close to zero which is what you really want. At the larger quoted figure from the book, the cranks can still be a bit tight after 20,000km, which is not real good. Or so the story goes.

Spike, Stefan has a race crank and corrillo rods on his site (AU$1246, you might want to look into that, before you get carried away with your boat anchor set up. The bores on the eng were Ok, possibly indicating that the crank journal is not too bad, and the rods maybe OK. Still a bit of a lucky dip. However it will need to be rebalanced for your set up. http://stores.ebay.com.au/ducparts-g...Z2QQpZ12QQtZkm

Griff