cleaning up cannisters

got2dv8

What is recommended to clean up stock cans which have some scratches and scuffs? Just looking to do so by hand. Looking for uniform brushed finish as per stock. I've used metal polish but it's too wimpy.

Thanks,

Robert

ps. I also have a set of a different cans ( which were in very poor shape) that I tried to cleanup prior and used a bench grinder with a wire wheel. The finish was much improved; however, I can see lines from each pass I made. So, looking to blend or erase those marks too.

Jafa

My first guess would be to use some fine wet and dry sandpaper ( wet ) and use long strips, sand around the tube, and you'll get the sanding marks in the correct direction ( radially rather than longitudinally ). If you have the facilities at hand, make up a mandrel in the lathe that you can screw one end of the tube to using the original blot holes, then you can sand / polish it in the lathe, also getting the sanding marks radially.

I'll be interested to see what you can achieve as I have 2 sets that need something doing to them to make them semi respectable.

brad black

they're anodised, so anything you do will destroy that finish and leave a shiny section where you have gone through the anodising. anything!

all you can do is strip all the anodising off (chemically easiest?), refinish them as you desire then re-anodise.

Mr.R

Brad's spot on here!

When I cored/rebuilt my OEM cans I had the sleeves re-anodised clear,
they came back with a satin finish just like the originals.

Steve R

Jafa

OK I didn't mention the clear anodising, I thought the OP knew that by what he was suggesting he wanted to do. The swing arm, upper and lower triple clamps, rear alloy subframe etc are all clear anodised too.

900SL

Carbon wrap??

marvin

like jafa says, make some end plugs and spin polish them in a lathe (wet/dry paper or scotch brite pads) after you have stripped the anodizing with NaOh (lye), then re-anodize.

got2dv8

Thanks for the replies. The cans in my original post are some SPO/SL cans that I purchased some time ago. They were gouged and scratched so I ended up swapping the sleeves left/right so the damage was on the reverse side unseen. When mounted you cannot see the lines, only upon close inspection. When I did my swingarm I used acetone and it removed the finish so I assume that was painted? I refinish the top triple clamp(s) with a wire wheel and they always turn out great. I really have no means to spin the sleeves.

My next project will be to install ST4 headers which I just purchased (in excellent condition). But I have to get the rear pipe modded to clear the swingarm so I will need to get the template for that and then I really don't know what kind of place to go to to do the work? Also, I will need some adapter pipes to go from the collector to whatever pipes I use. I have converted my BOS cans to A/B04 sleeves. They have race baffles and appear stock.. Or, I may use the SPO cans. However, unless someone has converted a set to utilize baffles (anyone?) I may just stick with the BOS/AB04 cans. From what I've read, I should probably just swap the scratched sleeves for a pristine set. I have a perfect set of A/B05 cans which have the welded piece in the endcap that I may also use, though I don't know if I want to modify them. I recall seeing a video with Bordi where he discussed the 851 and that you could simply remove a welds on the endcap to lessen restriction.

1. Can SPO cans be converted? Either to baffles or mod the chambers...
2. Anyone have the template for ST4 header mod that used to be floating around?
3. Anyone mod A/B04/05 endcaps? (I really shouldn't touch them)

Probably end up using my BOS cans as they are 50mm and ready to go...

Robert
1st photo is my BOS 50mm cans with Ducati sleeves. They used to be carbon but both burnt through😡. 2nd photo is the A/B04/05 endcap. 3rd SPO cans.

brad black

the 05 (888) mufflers don't have the baffle like the 04. it's very obvious on the 04.

my original post was based on seeing people (in the workshop) take to original mufflers with sand paper or scotchbrite or polish with the intention of fixing them, then walking over to me saying "I tried to fix this, but now ......" and then it was my problem.

griff put a template here: http://www.ducati851and888.com/showt...ght=st4+header

but it seems to be gone.

Toni851

Mr.R wroteBrad's spot on here! When I cored/rebuilt my OEM cans I had the sleeves re-anodised clear, they came back with a satin finish just like the originals. Steve R

may i ask how you separated the aluminium sleeve from the other metal so it can be re-anodised,? and how much £ was the anodisation it self? thanks

griff851

got2dv8 wroteThanks for the replies. The cans in my original post are some SPO/SL cans that I purchased some time ago. They were gouged and scratched so I ended up swapping the sleeves left/right so the damage was on the reverse side unseen. When mounted you cannot see the lines, only upon close inspection. When I did my swingarm I used acetone and it removed the finish so I assume that was painted? I refinish the top triple clamp(s) with a wire wheel and they always turn out great. I really have no means to spin the sleeves. My next project will be to install ST4 headers which I just purchased (in excellent condition). But I have to get the rear pipe modded to clear the swingarm so I will need to get the template for that and then I really don't know what kind of place to go to to do the work? Also, I will need some adapter pipes to go from the collector to whatever pipes I use. I have converted my BOS cans to A/B04 sleeves. They have race baffles and appear stock.. Or, I may use the SPO cans. However, unless someone has converted a set to utilize baffles (anyone?) I may just stick with the BOS/AB04 cans. From what I've read, I should probably just swap the scratched sleeves for a pristine set. I have a perfect set of A/B05 cans which have the welded piece in the endcap that I may also use, though I don't know if I want to modify them. I recall seeing a video with Bordi where he discussed the 851 and that you could simply remove a welds on the endcap to lessen restriction. 1. Can SPO cans be converted? Either to baffles or mod the chambers... 2. Anyone have the template for ST4 header mod that used to be floating around? 3. Anyone mod A/B04/05 endcaps? (I really shouldn't touch them) Probably end up using my BOS cans as they are 50mm and ready to go... Robert 1st photo is my BOS 50mm cans with Ducati sleeves. They used to be carbon but both burnt through😡. 2nd photo is the A/B04/05 endcap. 3rd SPO cans.

The guys that do the pipe work are usually just your general engineering /welding shops, the guy or girl has to be able to weld stainless and bend pipe. You'll have to take the bike it so they can bend the lead into the muffler bit so you get enough room between the foot peg and the muffler. You don't want melted boot syndrome. Mine has an over sleeve and springs like later model.

Header template1.pdf

548.52KB

griff851

As for the brushed look. Get creative, a broom handle and a couple of cones. You just have to get the sleeve to rotate, rest is practice. If you've got a jig saw and some wood, your in business. 😄

dudlington

I tried various ways to replicate the brushed look. The best finish I achieved was to make up a simple fixture from 2 PVC end pipe caps that fitted inside the cannisters that were clamped in the center with a length of stud and some nuts. If you leave a long enough length of stud sticking out you can supprt the stud with some wooden supports (on a flat piece of wood) and enough left to attach your drill. I used it on the bench and spun the cannisters with my battery drill so making a sort of crude lathe. It is simple to make and effective. Then to remove the annodised finished I contiuously pressed with fairly rough sandpaper untill all the scratches have been removed. Be carefull around where the elephant and the ZDM number are, don,t remove too much here otherwise you will have strange lettering/symbols. For the final finish you need to press the sandpaper on with a quick on/off motion many many times as you are traversing along. After some practice you will see the differences in the revolution speed and the on/off motion you will need. I did run a suitable tool through the lettering/symbol to remove the burrs and give a hard edge. Afterwards clear annodise and I reckon most people could not even tell if they were ever done. I still have a set for an SP4 I need to restore at some point in my life....................

Toni851

i found this polish especialy for anodized aluminium, not tried it yet but might be useful to give the cans a good cleaning without to destroy the anodic layer