sb955i wroteThanks Paul.
Is there a procedure to drain the tank without spillage? Or do i need to fumble with hoses, rags, and catch cans? No QD fittings yet 🙁
with the bike on the side stand the bung is at the lowest point so with the tank up on it's prop support undo it with a 13mm, make sure you have a funnel and a can of some sort, they hold 18L full so don't get one that's too small!😁
be aware, these steel tanks are on a hinge and they do rust, be extra careful not to extend the tank back further than the height it will rest on the prop, and when you get it apart have a very good look inside and out for rust around the hinge, it's common for them to leak there, a kreem liner, or similar after a repair does the trick.
to get to the internals there's 3 x 4mm allen bolts (the other two are cosmetic) to get the filler assembly off, then there's 10? 2.5mm grub screws that hold the sump in, when they're out you will need to lift from the fill hole upwards, it might be very tight! but it does come out, there will likely be corrosion and gunk under there, clean it up and grease the o ring with rubber grease, makes reassembly much easier.
NEVER, blow compressed air through the vent at the front of the tank, you can easily split the weld that holds the vent box in place, expensive!!😯
Take your time with disassembly of the tank, even though they're steel i have seen a bonehead crumple one by using a hammer handle as a lever (dickhead!) if you replace the internal hoses use INTERNAL FUEL TANK HOSE, normal efi hose will not do, it isn't designed to be immersed in fuel. The return line hose that goes from the return valve to the degasser and the degasser to the rubber pump boot will be fine, check the gauze filter under the pump boot as well.
paul.
