Not your usual request for help? Wet clutch conversion?

lefty

Hi all, I ride with one arm, I love Ducati's but the dry clutch is a real pain for me - the clutch master cylinder takes up way too much space on my handle bar as it needs to house the throttle, brake lever and switch gear, plus the clutch is really heavy (when using one hand to also operate throttle & brake) - town work is hard and I have dropped the bike attempting slowly manoeuvres what with the short vlip on, shite steering lock and weight of the clutch. I have a centrifugal clutch fitted which works brilliantly, I ride clutchless (I have no clutch lever) but would prefer to have the option to declutch. My wife had an S2R which whilst its clutch was hydraulic was extremely light, because of noise regs most (all?) modern Ducati's have wet light clutches, some cable operated. Also I am aware that there is at least one wet clutch conversion available in the US for air cooled ST3 & S2R(https://www.amazon.com/Ducati-Black-.../dp/B0069UQKTA)... and these Germans have fitted a tetrastretta engine to an 888 with cable clutch...my question is does anyone know how can I get a light to operate cable clutch on my 888?

Steben

Just fit an Oberon one , its way lighter to operate and pulls away smoother 👍

haga40

Maybe this is an idea for you, a VeeTwo coupling ...!

..
Description:
Semi-automatic clutch, speed of engagement adjustable.

638.00 (MSRP elsewhere 1,200.00) Handy for in the city and people who get cramps in the left hand. There is also no need to replace a clutch cylinder. Once driven ... you don't want to be without it anymore.

lefty

Steben wroteJust fit an Oberon one , its way lighter to operate and pulls away smoother 👍

Yes, thanks, I have tried Oberon, 25% lighter of 'bastard heavy' = 'very heavy', an improvement but still too heavy for me!

lefty

Thanks Haga - can you post more details as the pic's are thumbnails, very interested... do you have one?

haga40 wroteMaybe this is an idea for you, a VeeTwo coupling ...! .. Description: Semi-automatic clutch, speed of engagement adjustable. 638.00 (MSRP elsewhere 1,200.00) Handy for in the city and people who get cramps in the left hand. There is also no need to replace a clutch cylinder. Once driven ... you don't want to be without it anymore.

haga40

Hi Lefty,

I don't have one on my bike myself.
But I have heard positive reports from someone who mounted it.
These clutches are sold by a company here in Holland;

De Ducati Deskundige; Carl Nengerman 3 x D
Griftstraat 36
7311 MB Apeldoorn
Tel.: +31(0)55-5214516
Mobiel.: +31(0)6-38041257
Mail.: Klik hier voor mail
Web: http://www.de-ducati-deskundige.nl

Good Luck,
Ger(haga40)

lefty

Thank you, I have emailed them

haga40 wroteHi Lefty, I don't have one on my bike myself. But I have heard positive reports from someone who mounted it. These clutches are sold by a company here in Holland; De Ducati Deskundige; Carl Nengerman 3 x D Griftstraat 36 7311 MB Apeldoorn Tel.: +31(0)55-5214516 Mobiel.: +31(0)6-38041257 Mail.: Klik hier voor mail Web: http://www.de-ducati-deskundige.nl Good Luck, Ger(haga40)

brad black

the wet clutch in the s2r800 is the adige aptc clutch, which has a lot more plates and has a curved spline system to apply more clamping load to the pack with engine torque. as such, it can run with softer springs. it's only fitted to small blocks, but you could possibly try to fit it if you get a crank gear as well. you'd also need the oil pump gear that goes with it.

cable operation is no guarantee of low lever effort. the lever effort is a ratio thing, and whether it's hydraulic or mechanical, it's still the same ratio.

if you fit some of the later 98> primary drive gears, with the 1.84 ratio, that will speed the clutch up which increases its torque capacity, so you can reduce spring load. i run mine with 4 springs anyway, but they are some sort of heavy duty spring. if you speed it up you should be able to run 4 normal springs easily.

an 1198 pack and basket will give you an extra friction plate, again increasing its capacity so you can reduce spring load. again, wet vs dry is no dictator of lever effort. dry should be able to run with less spring load than wet too, all other things being equal.

softer springs with more preload gives a lower lever effort for the same seat load.

Mr.R

Hi Lefty,

Have you tried contacting NABD the National Association of Bikers with a Disability ?
A couple of mates of mine who broke their backs years ago found lots of help and info from these people.

http://www.nabd.org.uk/#:

Steve R

Mr.R

As Brad has posted there's no difference between wet or dry clutches, it's down to the ratio that's used.
Many years ago I converted my 900SS Bevel to hydraulic operation using a AP Lockheed M/cylinder in combination with a Honda RC30/VF slave and it's still to this day the lightest pull of any clutch I've used.
It's a one finger operation clutch and I'm still using it after almost 40 years!

P.S. Your package is on it's way, my daughter finally posted it yesterday.

Steve R

lefty

Looking forward to the package thanks!! please see my reply to Brad as it applies to your text as well... cheers!!

Mr.R wroteAs Brad has posted there's no difference between wet or dry clutches, it's down to the ratio that's used. Many years ago I converted my 900SS Bevel to hydraulic operation using a AP Lockheed M/cylinder in combination with a Honda RC30/VF slave and it's still to this day the lightest pull of any clutch I've used. It's a one finger operation clutch and I'm still using it after almost 40 years! P.S. Your package is on it's way, my daughter finally posted it yesterday. Steve R

lefty

Thanks for the replies Brad & Mr R... so my main problem is fitting the clutch AND brake levers AND throttle on the one clip on, the hydraulic master cylinders take up a lot of bar space whereas a cable clutch can be v small, my next problem is the weight of the clutch. I have a centrifugal clutch fitted and currently don't have a clutch lever but my chain is taking a beating and once it is slack (after three miles!!) gear changes are like a coal train shunting. I've stumbled across a possible solution - the centrifugal clutch is superb for pulling away and stopping, if I can get a method of operating the clutch by cable I can use it for down shifts... Ducabike offer a cable operated slave cylinder (https://gegshop.nl/en/hypermotard-82...perstrada.html) for modern Ducati's (they sell a glass clutch cover for some incomprehensible reason which necessitates an alternative clutch operating mechanism), I am wondering whether that the cable operation it offers would be just too heavy on the 888... any idea?
p.s. I joined NABD and have dealt with them, they are ok for 'off the shelf' solutions and they are great for raising funds to help damaged riders get back on to bikes but not so good for erm more complex soluitions...

brad black wrotethe wet clutch in the s2r800 is the adige aptc clutch, which has a lot more plates and has a curved spline system to apply more clamping load to the pack with engine torque. as such, it can run with softer springs. it's only fitted to small blocks, but you could possibly try to fit it if you get a crank gear as well. you'd also need the oil pump gear that goes with it. cable operation is no guarantee of low lever effort. the lever effort is a ratio thing, and whether it's hydraulic or mechanical, it's still the same ratio. if you fit some of the later 98> primary drive gears, with the 1.84 ratio, that will speed the clutch up which increases its torque capacity, so you can reduce spring load. i run mine with 4 springs anyway, but they are some sort of heavy duty spring. if you speed it up you should be able to run 4 normal springs easily. an 1198 pack and basket will give you an extra friction plate, again increasing its capacity so you can reduce spring load. again, wet vs dry is no dictator of lever effort. dry should be able to run with less spring load than wet too, all other things being equal. softer springs with more preload gives a lower lever effort for the same seat load.

brad black

the 821's have a cable clutch standard, but they use an actuator in the clutch cover itself. the ducabike kit means they can run the bling cover and the original cable (i assume) by fitting an actuator and pushrod from the lh side like all the others.

lefty

yes, true, so I'm wondering if I buy one and fit it to my 888 whether it would just be too heavy?

brad black wrotethe 821's have a cable clutch standard, but they use an actuator in the clutch cover itself. the ducabike kit means they can run the bling cover and the original cable (i assume) by fitting an actuator and pushrod from the lh side like all the others.

brad black

i think you're looking at this all wrong. cable has no relevance to lever effort.

make the clutch you have lighter. more plates, spin it faster, lower the spring force. if you then want to use a cable set up for bar space, do so.

lefty

so are you saying the clutch will require the same effort at the lever whether standard hydraulic or using a Ducabike slave cylinder with cable actuation as discussed?

brad black wrotei think you're looking at this all wrong. cable has no relevance to lever effort. make the clutch you have lighter. more plates, spin it faster, lower the spring force. if you then want to use a cable set up for bar space, do so.

brad black

i don't know. but you seem to be assuming it will be, when there's no reason for it to be.

the clutch pressure plate needs to be moved a certain distance for the clutch to release. the spring load at that movement will be the same no matter how you're moving it. and the effort required at the lever simply depends on the ratio - either mechanical or hydraulic - of the actuator system. the ratio is a trade off of effort versus travel. increase the ratio and the lever effort will go down, but you need to move it further. that's what fitting a larger bore clutch slave does.

you need to reduce the spring load.

freqrider

Just don't pull the clutch in all the way. I barely have to give it a slight squeeze to shift.
😄

freqrider

radial calipers help too.

lefty

Thanks for your tip freqrider however I don't use the clutch at all to change gear, it is pulling away/stopping that presents the problem where of course the clutch needs to be totally disengaged

freqrider wroteJust don't pull the clutch in all the way. I barely have to give it a slight squeeze to shift. 😄