Bike set up

Carts

Hi after some info, I've had my forks and rear shock set up to my specifications by maxton. Trying to get the bike handling to my taste. I have the rear hoop ride hight adjuster showing 10mm from shoulder to nut collar, and I have the fork showing 15mm above the yoke. The bike still isn't turning into corner sweet enough for me yet. The info I was after is how far can you rise the forks before the front wheel will rub on faring V panel. I feel if I can have 20mm that will be spot on.

Also looking at apex risers. More to bring the bars a little further back. Bit expensive thought by time VAT added. So wondering if anybody had success with them. I know from my search on site somebody did have some good results with them.

Carts

So has anybody run there forks with 20mm space above clamp? Will probably adjust them over weekend

marvin

I don't think it's ever going to turn in like a 600 CBR ! I'm not the one to talk about bike set-up. Rick Tannenbaumn (Motocd.com) had his 996 at the track and let some well known AMA racer ride it. When he came back in rick asked him "how was it?"

The guy said,,,,lower the back end, it turns in nicely but if you ever get into trouble you will just crash because you will never be able to save it.

Rick lowered the rear and liked it much better. Just my 2 cents !!

P.S. Some other things to think about:

Corse bikes have less offset which gives you more trail at the expensive of turning in more slowly but more stable. The best thing that I did was make 27mm offset triples (30 mm is stock)
Corse bars are longer than street bars, (more leverage).
Some racers have been known to bend bars.

Mr.R

I agree with Marvin I've run 27mm offset yokes and now have 25mm Mag' Corse items. I also shortened my Corse clip ons because that's how I like them.
The bikes stable and it suits me, but then I'm an old Bevel rider with 40+ years of riding that VERY stable old platform.
Dropping your forks though the yokes by 20mm is an awful lot Carts (as little as 2mm makes a difference) and if the front wheel doesn't hit the radiator it will be F'kin close!
A good friend of mine who owns a Hackett tuned 926cc 888SPS dropped his forks by 10mm and the wheel hit the rad' under hard braking, but the SPS's run 25mm offset yokes and a genuine Corse/bigger rad'.

What suits one rider doesn't suit another.
Some on this forum swear by Louigi Moto's 900 Monster/851/888 "Jack up Kit" parts to raise the rear end, I tried them and took them off pretty quickly, to me the bike felt like an accident waiting to happen, I then sold them onto another forum member who loved them.
You could contact Richie at Louigi Moto and see if he still has some, it could be worth a try for you.
But your SP5 has an adjustable rising rate linkage that you can play with to raise the rear without going to crazy.

Edit...I be wrong here but IIRC? Stafford's Classic TT 888/996 that has lapped the IOM TT Course faster than any other Ducati was fitted with Louigi's Jack up kit.

Steve R

Carts

Hi thanks for your thoughts.

I know what people preference are can be quite different. I tend to be a road rider and to be honest don't tend to do more that 90 mph tops. My preference is not to trail break into corners, I know trail braking can help bike turn by Dropping front end.

I know On other bikes moving forks 2mm can make a difference. I wanted to play a little and see what the effects are so I can find my Goldilocks setup.

MrR. Interesting what you said about adjusting the rear hoop. My naive understanding following other threads was to adjust this also changes the raising rate of the shock as well.

Although I've had the bike for 14 years now and it's a keeper. Not to sure I want to play around with steering head set.

My other thoughts was maybe to change the tyres ( I know that's a hole vipers nest ) to a set that my allow the bike to turn inline with my preference

brad black

aren't monster triples 25mm offset? you could try them as a cheaper triple option.

henk

brad black wrotearen't monster triples 25mm offset? you could try them as a cheaper triple option.

Yes they are.
Stig mention that on a topic here somewhere.

Henk!!!

marvin

Do they fit Ohlins forks?

Carts

Hi thanks for the info

I've been trying to do some research on the rear hoop eccentric adjuster, do this affect how the shock absorbers performers as well as ride hight? Can fully get my head around this. May be best to have a play. Did remember seeing some article on this forum, but can find them now.

If the adjuster does give me some added ride hight, that may be a better way to set bike up and I can lessen the amount I've pulled up the forks.

Tanks again for all your comments.

Carts

Thanks all

Had a great day playing about setting up the bike. I did as MrR suggested and moved the eccentric adjuster. Now I have a bike that has a set up I'm happy with. As Marvin says the bike doesn't fall on its ear but now it dose turn sweetly for me now. I think I tend to square corners a little so the 888 is not the best mix for my style. For me though if I have the bike in it's sweet spot I'm more relaxed and tend to keep my vision up which added to smoothness and speed.

Thanks a lot for your word of wisdom.

😀

Mr.R

marvin wroteDo they fit Ohlins forks?

Monster yokes are fitted with Showa forks the same as the SP5's and all the other 851/888's with Showa forks.
They stopped fitting the FG9050 Ohlins after the SP4/SPS's.

Steve R

Mr.R

Altering the rear adjustable linkage does alter the rising rate, but it also alters the ride height.
If you look at the rising rate eccentric from the righthand side (and think of it as a clock face) you can see that it's adjustment not only offers forward and back adjustment, that alters the rising rate of the suspension, but it also alters the up and down settings/rear ride height.
Anything between 3 and 9 O'clock raises the rear end, nearer 3 O'clock will give you a softer ride initially with a rising rate of compression on the spring, towards 9 O'clock and you get a firmer/more linear feel.
I have my Corse adjustable rocker arm set at 8 O'clock.

Steve R

MarkT

All--

Here is how I explained the benefits of the adjustable rocker to Bill on this forum many years ago

"Bill--

short answer- it depends upon how flat a progressive rate you like (I prefer the term leverage rate because you are really looking at a changing leverage ratio through the arc of the swing arm and rocker), where the rear axle is located (which is a big consideration with the leverage), the stiffness of the spring you chose, the type of trackbumpy or smooth, and the rear ride height you want and more I am sure.

But if you are going to put the bike on the track my recommendation is- when looking at the rocker from the right side of the bike- place the shock bolt at any position between 6 to 9 o'clock. This side of the adjustment gives you the flatter rising rate curves because the spring/shock is closer to 90º (perpendicular) to the swing arm. These flatter curves are what most modern track bikes use because they resist squat and works better mid corner. These positions will also raise your ride height so pick a hole accordingly.

Looking at the pictures you can see that most race bikes I have bought have the shock bolt around the 6:00 positionthis puts your ride height at maximum and the rising rate at the middle adjustment.

If you want to start with a position John Hackett suggests--- then when put the bolt hole at the 8 o'clock position. I have used this position on one of my track bike -- using the mono ball bolts to make any changes in ride height. I have also used the bottom adjustable Mono ball bolt on my shock but that is a real pain to do. I only change my sprocket by 1 tooth at most on this bike so the axle does move much so the leverage stays about the same and I can keep that position from track to track.

If you are going on the street you may want a bigger curve-- so pick a hole on the right side of the clock which tilts the shock/spring more forward. Pick a hole that gives you the ride height you like as a baseline and then adjust at the hoop. Mike C reminded me that the street bike came with the bolt hole at the 3 o'clock position-- good for bumpy street roads- but I think it was even too progressive for a street bike."