ST4S engine into 888 frame.

Grinta

Easy swap... but which engine-frame axles to use?
ST4S uses 12mm axles, 888 10mm. Are there Ducati axles that fit a modified 12mm 888 frame? Or do I have to buy/fabricate new 12mm axles with heads that fit into the 888 frame?
Thanks for the info or help!

oh... and I don't like the solution of pressing 10mm axle bushes into the ST4S cases.

nine16

All you have to do is drill out the frame holes. You'll need thin wall sockets though.

stiglarsenDK

Grinta wroteEasy swap... but which engine-frame axles to use? ST4S uses 12mm axles, 888 10mm. Are there Ducati axles that fit a modified 12mm 888 frame? Or do I have to buy/fabricate new 12mm axles with heads that fit into the 888 frame? Thanks for the info or help! oh... and I don't like the solution of pressing 10mm axle bushes into the ST4S cases.

Why not using bushings..? I have done this for 2 bikes and it works perfectly

Grinta

nine16 wroteAll you have to do is drill out the frame holes. You'll need thin wall sockets though.

So, can you use ST4S axles?

Grinta

stiglarsenDK wroteWhy not using bushings..? I have done this for 2 bikes and it works perfectly

May I ask what material did you make them in? Aluminium, bronze, steel...? What tolerances did you use? How long did you make them?

mikesps

I used stainless tube with a 10mm ID and 12mm OD. Length was very slightly less than the width of the cases. The bolt is compressing the inside faces of the frame against the sides of the engine mounts so there is no need for it to be a tight fit in the hole. It just helps to line the bolt up with the threads on the other side.

Mike

stiglarsenDK

I made some bushes in alu, Aprox 50mm long, 0.4mm play/diameter. I made 1x45 on the other vice sharp hole edges.. and dito on the sleeves. 1, To prevent they disappear in the case hole and 2, remove the sharp edge hole.. (never good in case if an impact) bolts from 888

BARONROJO

I followed the 12 mm way.

These are on my bike with a ST4S engine inside:

Bolts are Ti, nuts are stainless steel and the socked was also machined to fit the frame.

Grinta

Thanks everybody for the information! Gonna have a good think about it...

dudlington

Drill out and Heli coil . Both my 1198 engined 851 and 1036 Testerstretta Engine in an 888 SP4 has this solution.

nine16

Grinta wroteSo, can you use ST4S axles?

I used the titanium mounts from Nichols also.

stiglarsenDK

Bushing

Either solution will work, I did this to avoid changing the frame .. ie if an older engine would go back in some day.
Most people will go with st4s original electronics, I have now made 2 bikes with dual pick up and P08 box w 996 SPS Eprom .. time consuming to find the bits, but works very well.
Electronics tacho from moto guzzy.

Mr.R

I also used the Nicholls engine studs but...
I drilled the frame and the 851 cases out to 12mm, so that I could swap between that and my later 12mm cased motor.

Steve R

marvin

I use the Nichols 12mm bolts and drilled the engine cases out. BTW, Nichols bolts are not titanium, only the nuts. The bolts are tool steel ground to size

nine16

stiglarsenDK wroteEither solution will work, I did this to avoid changing the frame .. ie if an older engine would go back in some day. Most people will go with st4s original electronics, I have now made 2 bikes with dual pick up and P08 box w 996 SPS Eprom .. time consuming to find the bits, but works very well. Electronics tacho from moto guzzy.

I wanted to keep it pretty straight forward to understand but also easy to tune, so I kept as much stock(ish) ST4S as possible--loom, throttle bodies, etc. I eliminated some wiring bloat like the immobilizer, switched to the analog temp gauge, and switched to more svelte superbike handlebar switches. For the throttle bodies I had the stock injectors bored out/cleaned/matched. I think I also bumped the fuel pressure half a bar with an aftermarket regulator. And then the Microtec ECU is plug and play for the original 59M. Too hard to get chips tuned and burned these days. Was also able to incorporate a quickshifter.